Schiaparelli Fall 2026 Couture: Daniel Roseberry Defies AI With Surreal Silicone and Latex Masterpieces
PARIS — As Paris Haute Couture Week reaches its zenith, Schiaparelli creative director Daniel Roseberry has unveiled a paradigm-shifting Fall 2026 Couture collection that boldly interrogates the intersection of human craftsmanship and artificial intelligence.
Titled "The Call of the Void," the presentation featured unprecedented runway experiments, including latex jackets with inflatable tentacles, jelly-like molded silicone bustiers, and gowns that pulsed with ethereal light. Roseberry, a staunch purist who still sketches every look by hand, deliberately embraced the paradox of creating made-to-measure garments in the digital age.
Key Highlights: A color palette inspired by the unsettling imagery of Matthew Barney’s "Cremaster Cycle." Techniques developed with a Parisian workshop specializing in photorealistic silicone for the film industry. Extreme shapes and gelatinous textures subverting traditional notions of couture beauty.
"It’s really been a story of surrendering to what’s happening today, surrendering to this unknown," Roseberry explained backstage. "The digital part, the hand part: it’s this collision that happens in couture right now, which is really fascinating." The collection’s insidious yet captivating aesthetic spoke directly to an era of fake images, body transformation, and extreme red carpet dressing.
Glossy molded jackets and corsets stood as stiff and pneumatic as the iconic Allen Jones breastplate, while rubbery dresses quivered and clung to every curve. Even the prettiest looks, such as a putty pink pearl-embroidered prom dress, carried a faint, palpable menace. Roseberry traced this unconventional approach directly back to the house’s founder, Elsa Schiaparelli, noting that true couture must always contain an element of subversion.
A walk through the "Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art" exhibition, currently on show at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, provides a timely reminder that the Surrealists did not need an algorithm to produce ephemeral, mind-bending imagery. Roseberry remains confident that the Schiaparelli faithful can handle this bold new direction, viewing the collection as a "playground" and a "jumping-off point" for the house's most discerning clients.
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