In a subversive departure from its signature aesthetic, Kenzo’s latest evolution at Paris Fashion Week traded its iconic jungle prints for something decidedly sharper: punk-infused tailoring, underground energy, and a touch of British irreverence.

Marking its first dedicated women’s show in eight years, the LVMH-owned house embraced a rebellious streak that felt more East London than Parisian cool. Shawl-collared tuxedo jackets melted into kimono shapes, harem pants slouched low, and delicate lingerie peeked from waistbands, all set to a thunderous soundtrack featuring the Sex Pistols, Patti Smith, and Blondie.

A New Creative Direction

With longtime creative director Nigo absent from the presentation, his newly established womenswear studio, helmed by Givenchy alum Joshua A. Bullen, took center stage. The resulting collection masterfully blended Savile Row structure with deconstructed streetwear and subversive details, hinting at a fresh, progressive direction for the heritage brand.

The Tension of Past and Present

In a final, cheeky touch that delighted the front row, guests departed with T-shirts and crayons enclosed in metallic envelopes stamped with Kenzo’s latest emblem: a wide-eyed rabbit, ready to run. This impish gesture perfectly encapsulated the collection's ethos.

Because at Kenzo, the tension between past and present isn’t merely explored in a conceptual vacuum—it is worn, lived, and boldly projected onto the global stage.